This is such an expansive subject that I cannot handle it. I
just give a few experiences and tips.
First off, I am easy on brakes. My cars last 100,000 miles or
more on the same pads. In a car or RV I always start and stop
slowly. More so in the RV. In a car I prefer a standard
transmission and use the engine to slow me down -- especially on
hills. In the RV I always use the transmission to keep my speed
down when descending hills or mountains.
If you have a 5th wheel or trailer, you have auxiliary braking and know more than I do already. You will have brakes on the trailer that are activated by inertia or by a controller that you have some control over on/under your dash. The one we had had a handle on it so that you could actuate the trailer brakes manually.
In an RV, you have the standard, built-in brakes actuated by a brake pedal and they work really great. I mean, after all. that you have at least 6 giant tires to grip the road and the discs are too heavy to easily pick up. They ahd better work. Your greatest concern when you stop your RV is how many things are going to fall on the floor if you stop too fast. My toaster likes to slide off the counter and into the door well when I make panic stops.
You always go downhill in a lower gear and watch you tachometer as
well as your speedometer. Since I like to drive at 55, I make
sure that my downhill speed does not exceed 60.
On older motor homes and other trucks that are heavily weighted in
the rear, the front end will go into a sudden, serious shimmy. If
you have experienced this, it is frightening and you do not want to do
it again. When it happens, applying the floor brakes makes it
worse. If you are able, take your foot off the brakes and hold on
tight. Then reapply the foot brakes very slowly. Applying
the emergency brakes helps here but with my short arms and the release
hard to get to, this is hard for me.
The first time this happens, you know you need help. There are
various devices available to stop this. They are all
attachments to your front steering mechanisms. There are things
that look like shock absorbers -- I had one and it worked just
fine. There are brackets that attach closer to the wheels.
These cost more and so I suppose do more but I do not know. You
want something before you experience the shimmy the second time.
When the shimmy happens, you absolutely know that you do not want to
experience it the second time as when it happens you do not know if you
will live through it.
This is where you get into choices. There are several choices
here -- but you really do need to make the choice. Many states
and Canada have passed laws requiring toad braking systems for anything
over one tone. My Tercel (tiny) weighs 1 ton empty.
You can buy a system with a pump in the RV and a piston in the car
to actuate the brakes. These are somewhat expensive and require a
high-pressure line from the RV to the car.
The other is a system self-contained in the car. There are Two
major brands of these.
I have seen these. If I had seen them before I bought the
BrakePro, I would have bought the Brake Buddy. They cost about
the same: $1,000. Why?
The brake pedal connector has obviously had some thought put into it
-- unlike the Brakepro.
The unit is much smaller than the BrakePro. When your toad is
a Tercel, size matters.
I had read a bad review of the Brake Buddy and I talked to someone
who had returned it after he saw his brakes smoking when he stopped and
I had seen nor heard nothing of the Brakepro when it came time to buy
my unit. The Camping World salesmen have a good spiel -- as I
have discovered Camping World salesmen say this from literature and not
I have one of these and find it so under-engineered that I wonder
why they still exist. Brakepro certainly does not live up to
their literature or sales pitch.
These are designed for a right-handed person with a large toad
(maybe a pickup truck). The release-adjustment latch is on the
right side and is not possible to control when applying to the
pedal. Stupid. I complained to them about this. I see
that the newer models have moved this lever to the left side. It
helps but is not as easy to use as the Brake Buddy latch.
The control buttons on the top are mechanical and susceptible to
desert dust and then freeze up. You have to disassemble the unit
to clean out the dust. Neither WD-40 nor canned air will help.
I have installed bubble levels on the back and side of the unit as
it must be ABSOLUTELY level on the car floor. It has little
adjustable feet to permit this. When level and plugged in, push
the two adjustment buttons simultaneously (all lamps blink) to set the
unit. You cannot use an external level for installation since
there is no flat service against which to set the level on the Brakepro
Contrary to product literature, the Brakepro applies the brakes at
every railroad track, speed bump, road bump, bridge entry, and whenever
else the pavement is not smooth. When you expect Brakepro to
apply the brakes (such as when you apply the RV brakes), it does not.
You have 4 sensitivity levels. Set the level such that the
monitor lamp does not go on every time a bird flies by but goes on
sometimes. This way when you have a panic stop, maybe it will
apply properly. I think it will and this is when you really need
it. Under normal braking, you do not need it. On speed
bumps, the blinking red light lets me know that the Brakepro thinks it
This section is not a recommendation for Brakepro.
Once you have a braking system in the car, you need a breakaway
switch. This is a switch that activates the car brakes if the car
breaks away from your RV. If you have a 5th wheel, you also
have one of these. The switch has a lanyard-wire that attaches to
the RV one one end and the switch on the towed-vehicle. If the
car breaks loose, the lanyard pulls the switch and the car brakes apply.
This is not really any part of braking but I do not mention them elsewhere. You need to have a connector from your towing vehicle to the towed vehicle to activate the lights on the towed vehicle. If you have a 5th wheel, you already have all of this: you just attach the cable.
If you tow a car, you have some choices. You can buy a set of magnetic lamps from Wal-Mart (or an RV parts store) from $33 - $50. These have a cable that attaches to the connector on the back of the RV.
This is a little more complicated: make your choices based upon
connector types and lamp counts on your RV and Toad.
There are three basic types of connectors here:
Here is where you may have a decision to make. Your RV may
separate turn lamps and tail lamps. Your tow car may have
turn lamps and tail lamps. If they match, you just connect the
appropriate wires and diodes. If the car has separate lamps but
does not, you have a choice. You can either cheat and use one set
the tow cars lamps for both or you can add a couple more diodes.
Follow the rules for 4-wire but add the extra 3 -- your instruction set
will describe how to connect the extra wires
The wires are:
You need a wiring harness for the car. These cost about $80
and take several hours to install. There are more than
wires. Here is the deal:
Connect the other cable from the RV to the car and again test the
lamps. Test the lamps every time you hitch up the tow car.
My RV has a round, Chrome-Steel connector. MY external lamps
(I went cheap this time), has a flat black-rubber connector. For
$8 I bought an adapter at Wal-mart
I think I like the Flat rubber connectors better. The chrome
steel corrodes even though it has a pretty metal flap that closes over
the contacts when not in use. You have to make sure that all of
the contacts are clean each time you use it. Use a green scrubby
to clean them -- never steel-wool unless you like sparks. M flat
rubber connector has a rubber end cap that fits tightly over the
contacts when not in use. No corrosion.
The advantage of the chrome-steel is that it bolts securely to the
car and RV. The flat rubber just hangs at the end of its cable.